Pepolino

This charming, hospitable trattoria, tucked away just below Canal Street, is a favorite of mine. My recent dinner there was a melange of vivid garden flavors; were it not for the sounds of the busy intersection, I could've fancied myself to be enjoying a summer meal in the country. The complimentary tomato-basil "flan," served in a pool of olive oil, was a luscious spread for a basket of crusty Italian bread. I saved a few thick slices of bread to sop up the tangy lemon cream sauce of my fresh tagliolini entree, which was topped with a bit of grated lemon zest. (On occasion, I have also enjoyed the pappardelle with tomato and thyme.)

For dessert, I indulged in the strawberry bavarese: a creamy dome of vanilla panna cotta smothered in strawberry puree. A few sips of espresso completed this satisfying supper.

Pepolino: 281 W. Broadway, (212) 966-9983.